Beach

The real name of this famous Hawaiian beach is Ehukai Beach Park, but almost everyone calls it Banzai Pipeline, a nickname that refers to barrel-shaped waves that form just offshore. This legendary wave draws surfers from around the world who consider tackling “Pipe” to be a rite of passage. The difficulty of the task is evident both on the beach and in the water. Every surfer fantasizes about ducking inside the “Green Room,” as the tubular wave is known, and spitting back out at the very last moment before the tube collapses into a seething cauldron of whitewater.

Surfer carves the face of a smaller wave, while a larger wave towers in the background

In those fantasies, they conquer Pipe effortlessly, impressing their surfing buddies and winning the admiration of spectators watching from shore. But when standing on Ehukai Beach for real, Pipe’s legendary power and danger can intimidate the most accomplished surfer. Some Read More »

I tried to learn how to surf once. My boyfriend (who is now my husband) bought me a longboard for my birthday and took me out surfing in Cayucos. It was almost impossible to paddle out–me with my noodle arms that earned me the childhood nickname “T-Rex.” But I did it and there we were, bobbing in the ocean that suddenly seemed so much bigger than it ever had from the sand. “Look!” my boyfriend said, “Dolphins!” And then he took the next wave in and left me there to wonder how he was so sure those fins were that of dolphins smiling smart and not those of sharks most certainly out to eat me. I never did surf again, my arms too skinny and my imagination too fat, and my boyfriend eventually commandeered my birthday present longboard as his own, which I somehow think was the plan all along.

I don’t know how surfers do it–bob out there with nothing but a board and their thoughts. I am too macabre, too weak, too yellow maybe, my toes tingling with the maybe of it all. So what if more people die from car crashes, wasps, from snakes and bees, from drowning? There is just something about a shark that holds a special place primal cold in my nightmares. So in honor of Shark Week, I give you three of the World’s Sharkiest Beaches (based on nothing but my own research of the www):

Catch of the day. http://www.flickr.com/photos/zainedriscoll/3623710592/

New Smyrna Beach, Florida holds the dubious honor of being called The Shark Attack Capital of the World. Surrounded on all sides by water–the Atlantic Ocean, the Intracoastal Waterway, Mosquito Lagoon and Indian River–New Smyrna Beach boasts subtropical weather ideal not only for tourists and beach-goers, but also attractive to sharks: tiger sharks, blacktips, spinners and more. Given the large shark population and the increasing amount of people swmming and surfing in the waters just off the coastline, it is no wonder New Smyrna Beach holds the title of Shark Capital of the World.

Cape of Good Hope. http://www.flickr.com/photos/haakon/10398408/

Of course no discussion of shark attacks would be complete without mention of the coastline of South Africa. Here there has been documented footage of Great Whites leaping from the water to feast on seals, a watery ballet of grisy proportion. And it doesn’t even truly matter which particular beach you choose on South Africa’s eastern coastline—from Cape Town, up the Garden Route, and beyond to Durban. The entire area is famously shark infested. The fishing village of Gansbaai near Cape Town, for example, is known as Shark Alley for its unrivaled density of great whites. And the mouth of Kosi Bay in KwaZulu Natal, is known for its aggressive Zambezi, or bull sharks. Something tells me that it is of little solace to know that most shark attacks are a case of mistaken identity, a shark’s way of poking at something to see what it is. When the poke in question produces a deep gash down the side of one’s innards, it is of no matter that you are not a sea lion but a surfer.

How it got its name. http://www.flickr.com/photos/89044634@N00/24548709/

And then there is the poetically named Red Triangle, that is if the poet were Edgar Allen Poe and the subject the tell-tale shark attack. The Red Triangle is the name given to the roughly triangle-shaped area off the coast of Northern California extending from Bodega Bay, north of San Francisco, out to the Farallon Islands and down to Big Sur. The waters here are snack-rich, full of marine life such as elephant seals, harbor seals, sea otters and sea lions, favorite cuisine of the Great White Shark. Around thirty-eight percent of recorded Great White Shark attacks on humans in the United States have occurred within the Red Triangle – eleven percent of the worldwide total. And it just so happens that the Red Triangle includes my hometown beaches of Stinson, Bolinas, Tomales Bay where the sharks mate, and Ocean Beach where my husband now surfs sheathed in a black wet suit looking for all the world like a seal, a little gamey but good. Here the Great White rides at the tippy top of the food chain, fish and seals at the bottom, and surfers and swimmers only a half notch up from that.

So there you go. From my primal fear to yours, keep your toes tingling and stay dry–Happy Shark Week!

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

The 127 acres of Gasparilla Island State Park run along the southwestern tip of Gasparilla Island, one in a chain of barrier islands along the gulf coast of southern Florida. Although the park is known for outstanding fishing, historic lighthouses, excellent shelling, and some of the best surfing in South Florida, most would agree that the park’s greatest charm is its superb beaches.

Sandspur Beach on Gasparilla Island

Many proclaim Gasparilla’s pristine white sands to be among the best in the state, if not the finest. Three beach areas, Sea Grape, Range Light, and Dune, provide year-round swimming and snorkeling in the aquamarine waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Beach facilities include improved parking, restrooms, covered picnic pavilions, showers and restrooms.

Historic Boca Grande Lighthouse

The wooden lighthouse on the southern end of Gasparilla Island, first placed into use by the U.S. Lighthouse Service in 1890, was the first building to be constructed on Gasparilla Island. Its light served as a guide to mariners bound for the Port of Boca Grande and Charlotte Harbor until it was extinguished in 1966. The facility languished until the Florida Department of Environmental Protection assumed ownership in 1985 and spent a year restoring the lighthouse. In 1986, twenty years after going dark, Boca Grande’s light was relit upon the occasion of its reopening as a Museum and Visitor’s Center. Today the restored lighthouse is the crown jewel of the park. It is open to the public from 10:00 a.m.- 4:00 p.m. daily from November through April. From May through October it is open Monday through Friday, and it is always closed on major holidays.

Boats dot the water off Lighthouse Beach

Gasparilla Island State Park is accessed via the Boca Grande Causeway at County Road 775 and Placida in Boca Grande, Florida. The bridge crossing over to the island is private and requires a $4 toll; beach use requires and additional $2 day use fee.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

Surfer outside the Rock Food Cafe. http://www.flickr.com/photos/13956632@N00/3320027370/

Part pastoral, part Baywatch, Hossegor is an interesting mix of Basque history, Landais, and now modern day surf culture. Set among stone cottages, old growth pines and  Le Lac d’Hossegor, the town has recently become one of the premiere surfing locations in Europe, boasting such well-known breaks as Seignosse, Gravière, La Nord, Capbreton, and La Piste. Throughout the summer months Hossegor supports a thriving nightlife, centered at La Plage Centrale. And every September, the town hosts the Quicksilver Pro France surfing competition, attracting pros and fans the world over.

Kelly Slater, world surfing championship 2008. http://www.flickr.com/photos/25933559@N04/2886647269/

I haven’t been to Hossegor since before the Euro, which tells you just how very long it’s been. But I’m planning on going back, even if it looks a bit like home. It’s my home en français, ma maison, et c’est si belle.

North Beach: the Grand-Daddy of all beaches, the Godfather of the Point Reyes National Seashore. With over 10 miles of undeveloped sand, North Beach (and its sister beach to the south, aptly titled “South Beach”) boasts impressive dunes and the drama of heavy surf. Often shrouded in fog and open to the Gulf of Alaska’s every temper tantrum, high winds and all, this beach is not for the suntanned of heart.

Beach? What beach? Here there is fog. http://www.flickr.com/photos/yathin/2507059462/

What makes this beach so exceptional, perhaps, is the very thing that makes it relatively uninhabited. North Beach is wild. It is vast. It is exposed and salty, the water rough and unruly. Unpredictable. The sun may be shining in town and so you make the drive, crest the hill and then–bam! Met by a thick bank of fog. Or, better yet, in town it may be cold, windy and yet you bundle up to go to the beach anyway and then–wow! North Beach is bright, clear, the sweet warm scent of beach grasses lilt in the still air. Who knew? Who knows? This is North Beach, and here North Beach is boss.

On second thought... http://www.flickr.com/photos/michael_stark/347289761/

Then there is the water itself: Cold, thick, fast and burly. Just past the waters edge the beach drops off abruptly, creating severe rip currents and a strong undertow. Swimming is strongly not recommended, but there is a handful of local surfers who brave the cold and the sharks and the everything else scary for the thrill of the very large waves. Hopefully you won’t spot any Great White Sharks, but if you visit between January and May you just might spot a Gray Whale during their migration from Mexico to Alaska. They often swim close to the coast, popping up every now and then to spout off a quick spray of salt water right off the beach in front of you.

Sometimes simply referred to as The Great Beach, North Beach is nothing if not impressive. Cold? Yes, most days. Foggy, dangerous, windy, gray, and yet? Still: Beautiful, stunning, breathtaking, peaceful, quiet, noble, grand–The Great Beach, North Beach.

I am married to a surfer. Which means, among other things, that every vacation we take is spent on the coast. And not just any coast, mind you. No tranquil waters of the Caribbean or gently lapping waves of bay waters for this family. No, every vacation we take must incorporate large waves and early morning calls to check out said large waves. And then at night? A few beers with other surfers to discuss where the surf might be best the next day, i.e. more talk of large waves.

For the first few years I railed against the surfocracy of my free time. But what if I want to visit the clear calm bath water of the Caribbean? What if I want sand the consistency of sugar, regardless of surf report? What if I’m afraid of swimming against ten foot faces, of rip tides and sneaker waves that would surely steal my bikini top and whisk me far out to sea? What if, Neptune forbid, I want to vacation somewhere inland??

Luckily for me (and my marriage) we discovered Pavones. Located at the Southern tip of Costa Rica just above the border of Panama, Pavones is the perfect destination for those who want to catch what is known as one of the longest left surf breaks in the world. The South swells that roll in to Bahia Pavon hollow out perfectly, creating a wave so long that you literally have to get out of the water and walk up the beach to paddle back out to the line up.

The wild(ish) horses of Pavones.

There is much to do in Pavones for the non-surfer, as well. Sport fishing, scuba diving, bird watching, horseback riding and canopy tours of the surrounding jungle are all popular activities, as well as my personal fave: relaxing at the beach. The small town of Pavones is surrounded by beautiful black sand beaches, each hugged closely by verdant jungle growth. (While it is preferable to find a spot in the shade, beware of sitting under palm trees as coconuts do fall often!) Go at low-tide and treat yourself to wallowing in a sandy tide pool, a free spa treatment courtesy of nature.

Accomodations in Pavones have come a long way since the first time we visited ten years ago. If you play your cards right, you could feasibly find a place very reasonably priced complete with swimming pool, kitchen, hot water and a/c (trust me–after a day spent on a black sand beach you’ll want the a/c). Hang out at the local Cantina to get the low-down on the town’s latest happenings, or travel a mile north or south to one of the more remote beaches for some quiet beach-time surrounded by scarlet macaws and the round trill of nearby toucans. Pavones has it all: world class surf and stunningly beautiful beaches, a god-send for surfers and wives of surfers alike.

Photos courtesy of Susannah Murdock.

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

Years ago, Byron Bay, located about 480 miles north of Sydney, Australia, was discovered by hippies. They came for a week and stayed forever, leaving their indelible imprint on the town. Although the hippies have long since grown up or moved away, the laid back alternative lifestyle that persists to this day has made this small town of 30,000 residents the third most popular holiday spot in the country. Byron Bay hosts events such as yoga retreats, pagan gatherings, and music festivals that attract an eclectic mix of backpackers, surfers and musicians, as well as the affluent baby-boomer contingent. But without a doubt, the best part of Byron Bay is its beautiful beaches.

Main Beach at Byron Bay

The perfect surfing wave at Main Beach

At Main Beach, which directly fronts the town, a deep turquoise ocean laps gently upon a wide golden-pink expanse of sand. During the day the beach is the domain of surfers and sunbathers; Byron Bay is reputed to have some of the best waves in Australia and it certainly has some of the softest, deepest sand. But each night when the sun descends behind the hills, throwing rays up into the evening sky like searchlights in a perfect arc, everyone turns out to witness exquisite sunsets that morph from pink to gold to orange, before darkening to a deep purple that briefly precedes the inky night. This is the other wonder of Byron Bay – night after night, nature paints a dazzling palette over what may well be the world’s most beautiful beach.

As daylight fades, the sand turns to deep pink

Sunset turns the sky pink, gold, and orange

Nearby hills diffract the rays of the setting suns, creating an Aurora Borealis effect

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

There are SO many reasons to visit Ocracoke Island on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, but the most compelling reason of all is its spectacular, unspoiled beaches. Other than the village of Ocracoke and a few other areas, the entire island is part of the protected Cape Hatteras National Seashore. After earning the designation as America’s #2 beach in 2005 and #3 in 2006, Ocracoke Beach was finally named as America’s Best in 2007, and it is easy to see why. This 16 mile-long strip of pure white sand not only boasts clear, clean, warm waters, but because it is within the National Seashore, the land surrounding the beaches has never been developed.

Ocracoke Beach offers excellent surf fishing and shelling; it is one of the few places where visitors are almost certain to find a Scotch Bonnet, the state shell of North Carolina. Boating, birding, kayaking, surfing, and bicycling are also popular activities. Even the nights at this beach can be special – once in a while the waters sparkle with photo luminescent creatures. Best of all, this tiny island is reachable only by ferry, ensuring that its special qualities will forever be preserved.

The village itself is tiny by any standards, but it exudes an old-time charm born of a tradition fishing culture that is irresistible, yet all the modern conveniences are available, including accommodations that range from camping sites right on the ocean to luxurious suites on Silver Lake in the center of the village.

Photo Courtesy of BobX-NC

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

The Kennebunk River separates the upper village of Kennebunkport and the lower village of Kennebunk

Say the word Kennebunkport and most people immediately think of the summer home of ex-President George H. W. Bush. Nestled between the shores of the Kennebunk River and the ocean, the village is home to historic riverfront shops where everything from fine art to precious gems are sold, and historic mansions that stand like sentinels along the windswept ocean shores.

On the other hand, say the word Maine and people usually think of fine restaurants and mouth-watering, fresh lobster. Strangely, neither Kennebunkport nor Maine conjure up visions of lovely beaches, despite the fact that  the village is home to a wide arc of talcum powder sand that forms Gooch’s Beach and Mother’s Beach.

Even on a blustery fall day, people stroll along the wide crescent that is home to Gooch's and Mother's Beaches, here seen from the jetty on the north side of the Kennebunk River

Gooch’s, at 3,346 feet long, is the main beach. During the summer months it attracts beachcombers, sun worshipers, swimmers, and skim boarders. It is also the favorite haunt of surfers because most days the waves are big enough to ride.

Shops fill historic buildings along the waterfront, leading to the town's tiny harbor

To the north, the jetty at the mouth of the Kennebunk River is a perfect place to watch luxurious yachts sail in and out of the town’s tiny harbor, while at the southern end of the crescent, Mother’s Beach is tucked into a sheltered cove. With a playground right on the beach and gentle waves, Mother’s is a favorite of families with small children.

Both Gooch’s and Mother’s Beaches have lifeguards from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day from July through Labor Day. A permit is required to park at the beach and can be obtained at the Chamber of Commerce or through local merchants. Better yet, just hop on the town trolley and ask to be taken to the beach

Maine, and especially the Kennebunkport area, is great for lobster and shopping and spotting celebrities, but its beaches should not be overlooked, because they rank among some of the finest in the country.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

Bondi Bay, with double overhead surf and an offshore wind

During a recent visit to Sydney, Australia, a friend said I must see Bondi Beach, insisting that coming to Australia and not seeing Bondi was akin to visiting Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. As an ex-surfer, I had long known about Bondi; it is famous with surfers the world over for its waves. To my surprise, however, I discovered that there is much more to Bondi than just surf.

Residents and tourists come from far and wide to take the 3.5 mile cliff walk leading from Bondi’s beautiful crescent, up and over the rocky headland to Coogee Beach. Many begin at the midpoint of the trail, in Bronte. Walking toward Bondi, they arrive just in time to enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the restaurants that offer unobstructed views of the bay, before making the return trip. I did not have a full day, so my friend and I began in Bondi.

The Icebergs Pool at Bondi, one of many oceanfront salt-water pools around Sydney

At the southern end of the beach we followed the concrete ramp up to the cliff walk. The well-paved path hugged the jagged rock face, climbing steeply in some areas. Soon we came to the Icebergs Pool, one of the many oceanfront salt-water pools found at Australian beaches. Home to the Bondi Icebergs Club, this club requires members to swim three out of four Sundays for a period of five years. The water is cold in the winter (thus the moniker “Icebergs”) but the pool is perched on the cliff at just the right height to catch incoming waves, providing calm waters for swimming year round.

The cliff walk between Bondi and Tamarama Beaches

A bit further along we came to tiny Tamarama and Bronte Beaches, both offering great little cafes. We had to turn back at this point, but the walk continued to Clovelly, a sheltered beach popular with families, and then on to Gordons Bay, great for snorkeling and scuba diving. The path ends at Coogee Beach, which is popular with backpackers as it the site of Selena’s night club, famous for hosting top Australian and world bands.

In addition to great surfing and body boarding, topless sunbathing and swimming are allowed at Bondi. Bondi is also home to the world’s oldest surf lifesaving club, so even if you’ve never surfed, this is the perfect place to take lessons, since there’s always someone to rescue you if you take a nasty tumble off your board.

Bondi is the nearest ocean beach to Sydney, located a mere five miles from the city center, and easily accessible by bus or train.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel