Beach

Aerial viel of Cayo Costa State Park

Accessible only by boat, Cayo Costa State Park is located on an unspoiled, eight mile long barrier island that is part of a chain of islands sheltering Charlotte Harbor and Pine Island Sound on the Gulf Coast of Florida. The 2,506-acre island contains unique tropical vegetation and it looks much as it did 500 years ago when the first Europeans arrived.

Cayo Costa, translated as “Key by the Coast,” was the name given to the island by early Spanish traders. In the early 1800’s, Spanish fishermen from Cuba established “fishing ranchos” on the islands along Florida’s west coast, where they caught and dried fish before transporting them to Cuban markets. The Smithsonian Institution has identified two of these “ranchos” on Cayo Costa. In the late 1800’s, a quarantine station was established on the northern end of the island for immigrants entering the country through Boca Grande Pass. During the early 1900’s, approximately 20 fishing families living on Cayo Costa established a school, post office, and a grocery store.

While fishing continues to be an important activity on Cayo Costa, 95% of the island is now owned by the Park Service, with the remaining 5% in the hands of private owners. Neither electricity nor cable is available from the mainland and water is from wells, thus the private residences tend to be rustic weekend getaways. Within the park, 12 primitive cabins and 30 tent sites are available for overnight stays. Each cabin is equipped with a table and three bunk beds with mattresses; guests must bring everything else with them, including all food and drinks. Restrooms, showers, and water are located near the cabins and tent sites. Read More »

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

The 127 acres of Gasparilla Island State Park run along the southwestern tip of Gasparilla Island, one in a chain of barrier islands along the gulf coast of southern Florida. Although the park is known for outstanding fishing, historic lighthouses, excellent shelling, and some of the best surfing in South Florida, most would agree that the park’s greatest charm is its superb beaches.

Sandspur Beach on Gasparilla Island

Many proclaim Gasparilla’s pristine white sands to be among the best in the state, if not the finest. Three beach areas, Sea Grape, Range Light, and Dune, provide year-round swimming and snorkeling in the aquamarine waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Beach facilities include improved parking, restrooms, covered picnic pavilions, showers and restrooms.

Historic Boca Grande Lighthouse

The wooden lighthouse on the southern end of Gasparilla Island, first placed into use by the U.S. Lighthouse Service in 1890, was the first building to be constructed on Gasparilla Island. Its light served as a guide to mariners bound for the Port of Boca Grande and Charlotte Harbor until it was extinguished in 1966. The facility languished until the Florida Department of Environmental Protection assumed ownership in 1985 and spent a year restoring the lighthouse. In 1986, twenty years after going dark, Boca Grande’s light was relit upon the occasion of its reopening as a Museum and Visitor’s Center. Today the restored lighthouse is the crown jewel of the park. It is open to the public from 10:00 a.m.- 4:00 p.m. daily from November through April. From May through October it is open Monday through Friday, and it is always closed on major holidays.

Boats dot the water off Lighthouse Beach

Gasparilla Island State Park is accessed via the Boca Grande Causeway at County Road 775 and Placida in Boca Grande, Florida. The bridge crossing over to the island is private and requires a $4 toll; beach use requires and additional $2 day use fee.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

At Anne’s Beach in Islamorada in the Florida Keys, it is possible to grab a patch of soft sand on the postage stamp beaches that jut from beneath the mangroves and loll the day away. However, its real beauty can only be experienced upon entering the water. Tidal flats stretch for nearly half a mile beyond the tiny scalloped beaches, covered by just inches of water. The major activity here is not sunbathing, sunning, or boating; people come here to wade.

One visitor exercises by striding through the shallow tidal flats for miles

I stepped into this giant bathtub (because of the shallow depth, the water temperature is always extremely warm) and sank into sand so soft it felt like mud or silt squishing through my toes. Some visitors turned their dogs loose to romp in the water. Others beach-goers strode purposely through the shallows, aiming for a workout. I wandered aimlessly, head down, peering beneath the water to discover its mysteries.

A quarter mile from shore, the water is not even calf high

At first glance, this shallow bay seemed devoid of underwater activity. But looking more closely I realized that life was everywhere. Transparent minnows darted back and forth between the sparkling ripples in the turquoise water. Where sea grass covered the bottom, soft shell crabs scampered sideways, then suddenly stopped and disappeared, perfectly camouflaged by the surrounding sand. Hermit crabs tentatively ventured out of their borrowed homes and clawed their way across the bottom. When I touched their shell or disturbed the water they instantly ducked back inside and sank to the bottom, becoming just another discarded snail shell.

Look closely - the bottom is covered with critters like this hermit crab

In addition to two small parking areas (one with restrooms) connected by a boardwalk, several little covered decks have been built beneath the trees lining the boardwalk; these are perfect for picnics and most have steps leading down to the beach. Anne’s Beach is not for everyday sunning and swimming, but it is an intriguing beach that every visitor to the Keys should experience at least once.

Located at mile marker 73, just off the Overseas Highway on Lower Matecumbe Key in the town of Islamorada, Anne’s Beach is open each day from sunrise to sunset.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

There are SO many reasons to visit Ocracoke Island on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, but the most compelling reason of all is its spectacular, unspoiled beaches. Other than the village of Ocracoke and a few other areas, the entire island is part of the protected Cape Hatteras National Seashore. After earning the designation as America’s #2 beach in 2005 and #3 in 2006, Ocracoke Beach was finally named as America’s Best in 2007, and it is easy to see why. This 16 mile-long strip of pure white sand not only boasts clear, clean, warm waters, but because it is within the National Seashore, the land surrounding the beaches has never been developed.

Ocracoke Beach offers excellent surf fishing and shelling; it is one of the few places where visitors are almost certain to find a Scotch Bonnet, the state shell of North Carolina. Boating, birding, kayaking, surfing, and bicycling are also popular activities. Even the nights at this beach can be special – once in a while the waters sparkle with photo luminescent creatures. Best of all, this tiny island is reachable only by ferry, ensuring that its special qualities will forever be preserved.

The village itself is tiny by any standards, but it exudes an old-time charm born of a tradition fishing culture that is irresistible, yet all the modern conveniences are available, including accommodations that range from camping sites right on the ocean to luxurious suites on Silver Lake in the center of the village.

Photo Courtesy of BobX-NC

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

Nokomis Beach on Casey Key from the top of the boardwalk that crosses the dunes

One of the pleasures of roaming around Florida’s Gulf Coast is discovering smaller, lesser-known beaches scattered throughout the region. Since the recent Florida cold snap had chilled me to the bone I was badly in need of sunshine, so this past Sunday I went in search of another such jewel. On previous excursions I had checked out the beach in the very popular winter haven of Venice, but this time I turned off of US Route 41 onto Albee Road at the tiny community of Nokomis, located just north of Venice. To my surprise, the road led me across a drawbridge and to the center of Casey Key, ending at the entrance to Nokomis Beach.

Upon pulling into the oceanfront parking lot, I was delighted to find that unlike the Tampa area, which has pricey metered parking at most beach accesses, this parking lot was free.

Colorful umbrellas poke from the khaki-colored sand

Mom and daughter swing in the playground at North Jetty Park

From the top of the boardwalk I surveyed the beach. It was wide and clean, backed by residences and the occasional mom and pop motel. Because there are no high-rise condos or hotels on Casey Key it tends to be a less crowded beach. Khaki-colored sand, aquamarine water, and riotous beach umbrellas created a colorful scene as I walked along the shore, stopping occasionally to examine shells tossed on the sand. Stopping to chat with the lifeguards, I learned that Casey Key is also home to a North Jetty Beach, located on the southern tip of the island where the Intracoastal Waterway divides the island from Venice. Never one to leave before thoroughly investigating an area, I hopped in the car for the mile or so drive to the jetty.

Skim boarders try their hand in the gently lapping waves

Immediately upon arriving, I was intrigued. Scattered around the wide grassy expanse separating the parking lot from the beach were picnic tables, barbecue grills, shelters and a large playground. On the other side of the dune, twin fingers of a long rock jetty reached into the Gulf, pointing the way to the Intracoastal entrance. Saliboats and speedboats motored between the rocky arms, alert for manatees bound for warmer inland waters. From atop the jetty fishermen cast lines, hoping to snag one of the giant Mullet that swam by, haughtily ignoring the dangling smorgasbord. On the near side of the jetty a breathtaking turquoise crescent glistened tranquilly in its protected cove. Children waded in the shallow water as parents dug through shells heaped at the base of the rocks. Where the shoreline straightened out, skim boarders tried their hand. Further back, older residents unfolded lawn chairs and plunked down ice chests under the Australian Pines, all set for a day of people and yacht watching.

Fishermen cast from atop the jetty, while families congregate in the sheltered cove, with its calm, shallow water

Woman digs through mounds of shells that have been deposited at the base of the jetty rocks

All in all, this is one of the most pleasant beaches I have ever been to. There was so much to see and do and the beach and facilites were well maintained and idyllic. My only complaint – if forced to come up with one – would be the lack of restaurants in the area. But given the choice of a noisy, crowded beach with lots of restaurants and bars, and a pristine, quieter beach with fewer facilities, I’ll always opt for the latter. And in this case, if I get hungry, there are dozens of restaurants just ten minutes away in Venice. Visitors looking for a true “Old Florida” laid back experience will prefer lodgings in Nokomis, while Venice tends toward more upscale accommodation choices.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel of Hole In The Donut

Although park literature states that there are no lifeguards at Caladesi, the main beach near the concession stand does provide a lifeguard in the summer months, as well as a beach rental shack

In 1921, a hurricane roared onshore just north of Tampa Bay, Florida, battering the area’s fragile barrier islands. The force of the storm opened a new inlet between the Gulf of Mexico and the inner Sound, slicing the barrier island in two between Honeymoon Beach and Clearwater Beach.

Cut off from easy access, the tip of the island that was home to Clearwater Beach was so remote that locals began thinking of it as a separate entity which eventually became known as Caladesi Island.

The northern tip of Caladesi, with its spectacular white sand beach, is a 30 minute walk from the main beach. Photo courtesy of Florida State Parks.

A lesser visited and relatively unknown beach destination for many years, Caladesi Island entered the spotlight when it was discovered by Dr. Stephen Leatherman. Every year since 1991 Leatherman, better known as as “Dr. Beach,” has been ranking America’s top ten beaches. In 2008 he named Caladesi the best beach in America. Fortunately, the Florida Park Service began acquiring the property on Caladesi Island in 1966, ensuring that it will be preserved in its natural state for generations to come. Today there are only three ways to reach Caladesi Island. Most visitors pay a $10 fee and hop aboard the passenger ferry for a 15 minute ride from Honeymoon Island State Park, but it can also be reached by private boat or by walking. From Pier 60 in Clearwater Beach, Caladesi is a little more than an hour’s walk.

Caladesi Island may well be the best beach in Florida for shelling

Getting there may be a bit of a chore, but it is definitely worth the effort. Caladesi Island has three miles of spectacular white sand beaches with shallow, calm waters that lend themselves to swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. The exquisite clarity of the Caribbean-like turquoise water is best seen from the air, as in the above photo of the northern tip of the island.

Because the sand is not raked or manicured by machines, Caladesi’s beach contains more seaweed and beach rubble than found on other public peaches, but this also provides beach-goers with an opportunity to scavenge for interesting things that have washed up. Coral and ballast from old shipwrecks are occasional finds, but the real treasures are Caladesi’s abundant, unblemished shells, which are tossed up on the beach by the warm currents of the Gulf Stream. While collecting live shells is prohibited, a short stroll along the beach will net dozens of collectible specimens, including olive shells, conchs, cowries, clam shells, and sand dollars.

In addition to the beach, Caladesi offers numerous other activities. Rent a kayak and paddle through the mangrove tunnels on the bay side of the island or walk the nature trail behind the dunes for a close-up view of the maritime hammock. Boaters can enjoy day use or overnight stays in the 108 slip marina, or in calm weather, anchor offshore. Visitors who arrive later in the day are usually treated to spectacular sunsets.

Even on stormy days, Caladesi sunsets are spectacular

Facilities at Caladesi Island include a concession stand, covered picnic pavilions, picnic tables under the palms, restrooms, changing rooms, showers, and a drinking fountain. Equipment rentals, including chairs, umbrellas, beach wheelchairs, and kayaks, are available from the rental shack on the beach. Ferries run on the hour, every day of the week, beginning at 10 a.m. The last ride over to the island is at 3 p.m. each day, and the final return trip is 4 p.m. Visitors who arrive by ferry are limited to a four hour stay.

Photos not otherwise credited by Barbara Ann Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel of Hole In The Donut

Early settlers called it Hog Island. But when New York developer Clinton Washburn purchased the island in 1939, he held a contest for newly married couples, offering the winners a free two-week “honeymoon” in thatched bungalows he had constructed, earning it the name Honeymoon Island.

Sea oats and cactus that carpet the dunes behind the beach glow golden in the setting sun

Today a short drive across Dunedin Causeway brings visitors to the beaches, mangrove swamps, and tidal flats that make up Honeymoon Island State Park. With its easy access to the gentle waters of the Gulf, its sugary sand, and facilities that include a snack bar, parking, pavilions, playground, picnic tables, restrooms, and showers, the island is popular with beach-goers.

Honeymoon Island is also a favorite of birders and hikers. Its position near the top of Florida’s barrier island chain makes it an important location for resting and foraging shorebirds. On any given day, the chances of seeing a giant osprey or great horned owl are excellent and the Park Service’s list of birds that have been spotted here is six pages long! Other indigenous wildlife, including mangrove tortoises, raccoons, and eastern diamondback rattlesnakes, are often encountered along the 2.5 miles of nature trails that wind through one of the few remaining virgin slash pine forests in South Florida.

A spit of hard-packed sand on the northern end of the island is a favorite spot for both shorebirds and birders

Because of the way the Gulf Stream meets the island, its four miles of beaches are a virtual treasure trove of shells, and the southern end of the island is a favorite spot for fishermen, who pull flounder, snook, trout, redfish, snapper, whiting, sheepshead, pompano, Spanish mackerel, cobia, ladyfish, tarpon, and shark from the waters of Hurricane Pass. Other popular activities in the park include kayaking and surfing. Between the sand spit and nature trail, kayakers paddle the waters of Pelican Cove and surfing is usually pretty good on the north end by Bathhouse 3.

Honeymoon Island State Park is located a mile north of Dunedin, Florida. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. until sundown. The entrance fee is $5 per car for up to eight people, or $3 for a single occupant car.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Ann Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

No roads lead to Shackleford Banks. No bridges cross over to this narrow strip of uninhabited land off the coast of North Carolina. The only access to the isolated, unspoiled beaches on this nine-mile long barrier island is by boat.

Wild horses often emerge from the interior dunes of Shackleford Banks to wander along the ocean shore

Although Shackleford Banks once supported a thriving whaling settlement known as Diamond City, the last residents relocated by 1902. However visitors today find that they are anything but alone, for the island is still inhabited by a herd of feral ponies that are descended from horses that swam ashore from 16th century Spanish shipwrecks. These wild stallions keep a wary eye as they roam the dunes, beaches, and marshes of Shackleford. From a distance, they seem content to share their stunning beaches with humans, however visitors who approach too closely risk getting kicked or bitten, especially if a stallion thinks one of his mares or foals is being threatened.

After a casual stroll, the feral but seemingly fearless ponies head back inland to graze

Today the island is a part of Cape Lookout National Seashore. The National Park Service allows camping on the island, although only a limited number of permits are issued each season. Most visitors are day-trippers who hop a ferry for a short ride from the mainland towns of Beaufort or Morehead City, and then spend the day walking in the soft sand, searching for shells, watching the horses graze, fishing, swimming, surfing, or just sunning on the beach.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Ann Weibel