by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

From the balcony of my hotel room in Amed, Bali, I looked down on dozens of Jukungs – traditional outrigger canoes used by Bali’s fishermen – lining the shore. Intrigued, I descended to the black sand beach and wound my way between the hand-hewn craft. Although their carved prows and painted eyes seem whimsical, there is a deep symbolism associated with these simple boats. They are constructed following a strict set of religious guidelines, starting with the choice of a tree, which can only be cut down on an auspicious date. The jutting bow is crafted in the shape of the mythical elephant fish, its fierce bulging eyes believed to ward off evil. Each evening, fishermen venture out into the coastal waters, returning with their catch before sunrise. But when the boats repose on the beach, they resemble marlins that have bleached bone white in Amed’s year-round sun.

The prow of traditional Balinese fishing vessels are carved to look like the mouth of a fish

In addition to being the best place on the island to view (or even ride in) a traditional fishing vessel, Amed offers some of best beach snorkeling on the island. The reef, which lies just 75 feet offshore, features corals in mostly muted shades of beige and brown, punctuated by the occasional perfectly circular disc of bright lime green or royal purple. Though Amed’s reef is not spectacular, the variety and number of fish found amongst its corals is astounding. Beneath me, huge rainbow Parrot Fish drifted lazily alongside giant Red Snapper and elegant Queen Angelfish, while silvery needle-nose Trumpet Fish swam by at eye level. At one point I was surrounded by thousands of the minuscule fish: purple and yellow striped Zerbra Fish, iridescent blue Neon Fish, and an intriguing species with yellow and white horizontal stripes and a pink underbelly. They darted and zipped around, curiously investigating without ever touching me. At the outer edge of the reef I could still see the bottom through 50 feet of transparent water, and I drifted along listening to the snap, crackle, pop sounds of the fish feeding on the coral. Thoroughly relaxed, I pulled myself from the water and spent the rest of the afternoon lying on the glistening black sand in blissful sunshine.

View over Amed's black sand beach from the hotel balcony

Because Amed is lesser visited than many other destinations on the island, it is still possible to experience the real Bali in this delightful small village. Located on the northeast corner of Bali, Amed is easily accessible via paved roads and offers a number of accommodations ranging from small hotels to home stays.

Photos Courtesy of Barbara Weibel

MS Freedome of the Seas, currently the world's largest cruise ship capable of accommodating over 4,300 passengers and 1,300 crew on fifteen passenger decks. It will soon be surpassed by the Oasis which will have a passenger capacity of 5,400 persons.

Many beautiful beaches, like many beautiful natural things in the world have a precarious relationship with us humans and our ways. Lately I have noticed that there seems to be a growing sentiment amongst lay travelers that cruise travel is somewhat eco-friendly. I beg to differ, in fact it is less eco-friendly than flying (for example) and the impact that the cruise industry has on beaches is something for all beach bums out there to fight against.

From a carbon footprint perspective, the amount of carbon emitted to enjoy a week long cruise is significantly more than simply flying round trip to specific destinations. Some luxury liners have the capacity to hold thousands of passengers. Assume that 75% of these passengers have to fly round trip to the port of departure, that in itself adds so much more to the overall carbon emitted and we have not even talked about the burning fuel yet.

Bunker fuel powers everything on board from the engines to all the entertainment attractions, gardens, water parks, wave machines etc. Bunker fuel is cheap and dirty, and as we add all these amenities up and paired them with the thousands of passengers on board, we can just begin to see the magnitude of the carbon emitted.

The carbon emission issue is simply the beginning. Accommodating thousands of people on a ship has a significant amount of waste associated with it. According to Friends of the Earth:

“In a single week, one large cruise ship can dump over 200,000 gallons of raw human sewage and one million gallons of graywater (polluted water from sinks, kitchens, and laundries) into our coastal waters. These polluted discharges contain bacteria and other harmful pollutants which can cause beach closings, contaminate shellfish beds, and harm sensitive marine life such as coral reefs.”

The United States has anti-dumping laws in place that prohibit luxury liners from releasing waste into the ocean within 12 miles of the US coastline. This is fantastic news for the US, but unfortunately the larger liners go into international waters where this law does not apply.

More and more people are taking cruises every year. The rates get cheaper as the liners get bigger and so does the waste. Many amazing beaches in the world have the ability to take our breaths away, hopefully we do not create the opportunity for our beaches to fade away.

By Sebastien Tobler of Colliding Continents

The beach at Cua Dai is a thirty minute leisurely bike ride from the town of Hoi An. What makes this beach so special is its proximity to Hoi An itself, one of the only towns in all of Vietnam that survived the American War – as the Vietnamese call it.

Hoi An was a major trading port during the 16th and 17th centuries attracting Chinese, Japanese and Dutch traders. The foreign presence has left distinct cultural impressions upon the small town such as the Japanese Bridge (Chùa cầu). It is the only known covered bridge with a pagoda attached to its side. It is no wonder that the town was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Hoi An is famous amongst the Vietnamese for its seafood. What a better place to enjoy the country’s best seafood than at the beach. Seafood stalls add to the charisma of this warm sandy beach lined with beach chairs and umbrellas.

No, it is not exactly a deserted beach, in fact there are resorts and tourists. Despite this slight turn off, rest assured that I am refraining from using the word ‘Hordes.’ If it is any consolation, keep in mind that you will find an equal dose of locals and travelers alike.

You will find many beautiful and even deserted beaches along Vietnam’s coast, but you will be hard pressed to find one this close to a town that survived one of the most destructive times in the world’s history.

By Sebastien Tobler of Colliding Continents

by Barbara Ann Weibel of Hole In The Donut

Paihia and the Bay of Islands on the North Island of New Zealand is the staging place for most visits to 90-Mile Beach, the pristine stretch of sand on the west coast that is the gateway to the northernmost tip of the country. Since the journey requires negotiating quicksand streams, traversing rocky outcrops, barreling through surf, and precisely timing the journey to avoid high tide, most visitors make the trip in specially designed four-wheel drive vehicles provided by local tour operators.

At various places along 90-Mile Beach, jagged lava fingers jut into the sea

The name of this beach stems from camels that were originally used to transport goods up and down its remote sands. It was believed that a camel could traverse sand at a rate of 30 miles per day and since it required three days for camels to reach Cape Reinga at the northern point, it was dubbed 90-Mile Beach.

That was all well and good until someone actually measured the beach and found it was only 64 miles long, causing some consternation in the Northland. Should they rename it 64-Mile Beach? Ultimately, it was decided to keep the original name because Australia has 80-Mile Beach and New Zealanders wanted to have a beach longer than Australia, if only in name (note of interest here – Australia’s 80-Mile Beach is only 72 miles long).

High dunes behind the beach are ideal for sandboarding

The tour initially follows paved roads through a lush landscape of rolling hills carpeted in a sea of waving grass where thousands of sheep of sheep contentedly graze. But the moment the pavement ends, dramatic stretches of windswept sand, wild horses, and jagged lava shoreline dominate the landscape. An hour further north, rocky coastlines segue to giant dunes, where hearty souls trudge to the top and sandboard down, trying mightily to stop before crashing into the river at the foot of the dunes.

Beyond the dunes lies Cape Reinga, the northernmost spot on the island and site of lovely Cape Reinga Lighthouse. Scenery shifts once again at the tip: an azure ocean provides a stunning background for the brilliant white lighthouse, perched on an onyx volcanic precipice carpeted in emerald grasses. From atop the cliff, visitors are treated to a stunning vista of the beach they have just traversed.

Cape Reinga lighthouse stands at the northernmost tip of the island and looks back over the miles of pristine sands forming 90-Mile Beach

There are of course no hotels at Cape Reinga, however visitrs to the North Island will find plentiful accommodations in the Bay of Islands, which is also the stepping off point for the plentiful activities and attractions on offer in this exquisite part of New Zealand.

Photos Courtesy of Barbara Weibel

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

Key West is not particularly known for its beaches, but there are a few places to spread a towel and catch some rays. Tourists usually head for the better known beaches, which are often crowded and in some cases back up to busy roadways. Locals, on the other hand, almost always choose the beach at Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park.

Beach at Fort Zachary Taylor State Park, Key West

One of the reasons this beach is not often used by visitors is that it is somewhat difficult to find. To reach it, drive south on Southard Street and into Truman Annex. The road ends at a guard shack, where a small entrance fee is collected. The beach is half a mile further on well paved roads, with ample parking available right at the ocean.

The first thing you notice is that the land behind the beach is covered with Australian Pines,  which provide welcome shade in the blistering summer heat. Beneath the trees, picnic tables and grills share space with sculpture by artists from around the world, making for an interesting stroll through this wispy forest.

Picnic tables, grills, and sculpture are interspersed amongst the Australian Pines that back the beach

The beach is a combination of sand and coral rock. Most families and swimmers choose to stay on the sand strip, since it fronts a sheltered cove that slopes gently and usually has calm waters. Snorkelers generally prefer the rocky areas, which attract small tropical fish. There is also a short nature trail within the park and bicycling is strongly encouraged, although bikes are restricted from the beach and picnic areas for safety. The excellent facilities include a well-stocked food concession, gift store, equipment rentals, and well-maintained restrooms.

Coral rocks border the shore in parts of the park, and rocky arms reach out into the water, providing good snorkeling opportunities

In the event that you need more of a break from the sun that the trees can provide, opt for a guided tour of the historic fort, where you can learn how Fort Taylor shortened the Civil war and why it was reduced from three stories to one. Tours are offered daily at 12:00 Noon and 2:00 p.m.

While this is not necessarily a secret, locals are not particularly forthcoming about it when asked about local beaches; more often than not, they will send folks to the tourist beaches so that Fort Zach is reserved for those in the know. But now you now. If you are Key West bound, Fort Zachary Taylor is undoubtedly the best beach on the island.

Photos courtesy of Matt McDermott

Desroches Island, Seychells

When people think of Africa they don’t generally think of beautiful deserted beaches with hardly any people living near by. Desroches Island in the Seychelles is different in many ways but like most travelers going to Africa, you have to really want to get there. Located 1,000 miles off the eastern coast of Africa, getting there requires an insatiable determination to get away from everything, everyone and chillax!

The island itself is only about half a mile wide and three miles long with a total of 50 inhabitants. The contrast of turquoise waters and unimaginably white beaches is absolutely amazing. The relaxing lifestyle is definitely something, as a traveler, you will have to embrace. The waters on Desroches are impossibly clear, I am talking about AMAZING visibility here. The protected coral reef makes for some great snorkeling and attracts a variety of sea life making it an attractive fishing spot. Don’t expect to do much else except enjoying warm waters, coconut palms, three hour walks along the beach (because that is about as long as it takes to walk around the entire island) and most importantly – love island living.

If you can handle all those things but still yearn for the life luxurious, there is one, and only one, solution for you and that is the Desroches Island Lodge. They offer twenty ocean facing villas and a restaurant that offers simply great food.

By Sebastien Tobler of Colliding Continents

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

La Playuela may be the remotest beach in Puerto Rico. In some places the dirt road leading to this unspoiled crescent of sand has potholes big enough to swallow a car; in other places jagged limestone boulders protrude from the roadbed. But it is worth the trouble to get there.

The route to La Playuela Beach leads past ancient evaporation ponds that have for centuries been used to mine salt. Still in operation today, they cover the narrow isthmus that connects the cape with the rest of the island, leaving barely enough room for a car to pass. Beyond these ponds, the road climbs steeply over a landscape of jagged limestone, offering spectacular vistas of the azure Caribbean from atop 200-foot high cliffs that plunge straight down to the sea. Perched at the top of the rocky precipice is Los Morillos Lighthouse, constructed by Spaniards in 1882. For years this historic structure languished, crumbling and neglected and closed to the public. Fortunately, the lighthouse recently underwent structural renovations until was one again opened to the public in March of 2007.

Waves crash incessantly against the rocky cliffs beneath Los Morillos Lighthouse. Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/silversldr/3035500230.

Hearty souls who venture this far are rewarded with a an incredible view of the pristine crescent bay and La Playuela Beach at the foot of the cliffs. A narrow road winds down the rocky face and – Voila! – you can drive right down the beach and pick out a spot at the edge of a blue-green shimmering Caribbean. Although the water here can be rough, the sand is soft and white, and the entire area is a bird sanctuary, so sightings of unique species are common. The only amenities to be found are a few picnic tables tucked in amongst the scrub vegetation and cactus on this dry side of the island. Although it is rumored that the government plans to open a gift store at the lighthouse, for the moment it is wise to carry your own food and water.

View over lovely La Playuela Beach from the adjacent cliffs. Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/oquendo/545056280/in/set-72157600365833755.

La Playuea and Los Morillos are located on Cabo Rojo (literally Red Cape), which is the name of the southwestern tip of the island. However, it is easily confused with the “town” of Cabo Rojo, further to the north. Even more confusing, Cabo Rojo is the name of the entire area (what we would consider a county) , with the town being the administrative center for the area. Fortunately, most people will know what you are talking about if you ask for directions to the lighthouse at Cabo Rojo.

Since there are no services or accommodations at the beach, it is best to stay in nearby Boqueron, San German, or the town of Cabo Rojo.

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

It’s very sad that most visitors to Puerto Rico only experience San Juan and surroundings, because this tropical island just begs to be explored, beginning with its lovely beaches. While Luquillo Beach east of the capitol is the most famous beach on the island, it is hardly the best. I often head for the southwestern corner of the island, which has numerous pretty beaches.

Balneario Boqueron, in the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico. Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/oquendo/562035868.

Of these, Boqueron Beach is one of my favorites. The village of Boqueron, filled with colorful houses and ramshackle piers, stands at the heart of a crystal clear crescent bay, with palm-fringed white sand curving away on both sides. Life is simple and slow on this side of the island, and villagers mingle with beach goers. Fishermen pull their rustic wooden boats up on the sand and sell fish still flopping around in the bottom of the boat. Local divers shuck fresh oysters, slather them with tabasco, and grinningly dare you to try one. If seafood is not your style, the village has an abundance of cantinas and local restaurants (no franchises here!).

The only time Boqueron Beach (in local lingo it’s Balneario Boqueron) gets crowded is on summer weekends. But with more than a mile of beach, there’s plenty of room for everyone. Behind the golden sands, picnic tables lie scattered beneath towering coconut palms and basketball courts await a pick-up game. Snorkeling, scuba-diving, kite-surfing, and bicycle rentals are all available at Boqueron, making it the perfect beach destination for the whole family.

Looking back at hthe crescent beach from one of the piers in the village. Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/solarpunk/526237670.

In addition to restrooms, changing facilities, and a snack bar, a string of government-run rental apartments are also found at the main beach. Because of their affordable rates and location right on the beach, these apartments so popular that reservations must be made exactly three months in advance and people line up at the reservations office. But if you are not lucky enough to snag one of these budges beauties, don’t despair; the Boqueron area offers numerous accommodation choices.

Admission to the balneario is $2 per day, but you can walk along the portion of the beach that fronts the village for free.

Always wanted to learn to surf? The sport is demanding and takes a while to master, but there’s no greater thrill than standing up on a board for the very first time and riding a wave into shore. For the best success, choose one of the following surf breaks, all of which are great for novices.

Top Ten U.S. Beaches for Learning to Surf:

Waikiki Beach, Hawaii

Waikiki, Oahu, Hawaii
Waikiki Beach may be the best place in the world to learn how to surf. During the winter months the waves are easy to catch, and instructors at Waikiki Beach Boys have a reputation for getting beginners up and riding waves in minutes, regardless of age or physical prowess. Lessons begin on the beach, where students learn how to safely paddle out and how to pop up onto their feet when they catch a wave. Then it’s time to paddle out, turn around, and wait for the instructor to give the board a gentle push as the first wave approaches.

Miami Beach, Florida

Miami Beach, Florida
In Miami Beach, you’ll never have to worry about the surf being too big, making for great learning conditions and uncrowded waves. The water is always warm and you’re never far from some of the country’s best entertainment hot spots.

Cocoa Beach, Florida

Cocoa Beach, Florida
Kelly Slater, the surfer with the most world titles, grew up and learned to surf in Cocoa Beach. The year-round gentle waves at this beach are small, slow and mushy, making them ideal for learning.

Jobos Beach, Isabela, Puerto Rico
Although most waves in Puerto Rico are too big for newbies, the exception is Jobos Beach on the northwestern corner of the island. This crescent shaped bay has an outside break for experienced surfers and an inside “reform” break that quickly drops to powerful whitewater -perfect for learning.

Cowell's Beach, Santa Cruz, California

Cowell’s Beach, Santa Cruz, California
At Cowell’s the crowd is mostly beginners on foam boards, so there’s no need to be intimidated. The wave breaks on the outside and rolls slowly into the beach. And Santa Cruz is a perfect stepping-off point for exploring northern California’s beaches and Redwoods forests.

Huntington Beach, California

Huntington Beach, California
Billed as the Surf Capitol of the USA, Huntington Beach has numerous breaks for surfers of all capabilities. The double-breaking waves on the south side of the pier are best left for the experts, but beginners will find the waves on the north side of the pier perfect for learning.

Newport Beach, California
Newport Beach is where the University of California, Irvine hosts their beginner surf classes. Between the Newport Pier and the first jetty there are numerous great beginner breaks.

Cardiff By The Sea, Encinitas, California

San Diego, California
There are several San Diego area surf breaks that are appropriate for beginners. Notable among them are the sand-bottom beaches in the northern part of the County, in communities such as Encinitas, Carlsbad, and Leucadia.

Zuma Beach, Malibu, California
The northern area of Zuma Beach in Malibu boasts a soft sandy bottom with consistent wave activity and this beach is consistently identified by lifeguards as one of L.A’s best places for kids to learn to surf!

Hanaalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii

Hanalei Bay, Kauai, Hawaii
There is always a perfect beginner break somewhere on the north shore of Kauai, but most days you need look no further than gorgeous Hanalei Bay, where you can learn to surf on consistent, gentle waves in one of the most beautiful places on the face of the earth.

In addition to choosing a beach with a wave that’s appropriate for beginners, the following tips will go a long way toward ensuring your success:

• Start with a long foam board (at least 8′ long but preferably 9′ or longer), rather than a regular fiberglass board. These are usually available for rent at any local surf shop.
• Avoid beaches with large, aggressive waves and experienced surfers.
• Rather than perfectly formed waves, look for a long whitewater break – this type of wave will provide plenty of energy to push your board without the need for you to initially understand how to drop in to a wave.
• Choose a beach with small to medium size (waist-high or smaller), slow-moving waves and a gently sloping sandy bottom that allows you to walk out to the break rather than paddle out.

So, go catch a few, but be forewarned – once you’ve ridden a wave you’ll probably be hooked for life!

Photo credit: Waikiki Beach

Article by Barbara Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut

Every spring, Jacksonville Beach, Florida shakes off its winter hibernation with a series of beach events at Sea Walk Pavilion, the large public stage and park fronting the main beach. This year’s lineup begins with the Great Atlantic Seafood Festival on March 21, 2009. Featuring live music, arts & crafts, rides, and games, this festival is fun for the whole family, but the shining star of the event is Florida’s finest seafood, prepared fried, boiled, grilled, or blackened, as you wish.

Jacksonville Beach, looking south toward the municipalpier. Photo courtesy of Photo courtesy of Digit AL @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/-dash/3337471174

Springing The Blues, the South’s largest free blues festival on the ocean, follows closely on the heels of the seafood fest. Scheduled for April 3-5, 2009, this year’s event features blues performers, great BBQ and seafood, kids activities, arts & crafts. Sea Walk Pavilion is also the location for Easter Sunrise Services (April 12), and the sand castle building contest (April 25).

Sea Walk Pavilion at Jacksonville Beach. Photo courtesy of jacksonvillebeach.org

Though it’s always fun to visit during an event, this is a great beach to visit any time of the year. Clear waters and soft sand lures sun worshipers; a municipal pier lures anglers; and restaurants, shops, and bars line the boardwalk along the main beach.

Many visitors prefer to stay in the small but thriving beach community of Jacksonville Beach while others opt for accommodations in nearby Jacksonville, the larger metropolitan area located a mere dozen miles away.