Beach Blog

It is fitting that I write about Bolinas Beach right before the 4th of July. After all, throughout high school I spent every 4th of July there at the beach, drinking beer during the day and dodging bottle rockets at night. Perhaps best known for its residents who supposedly tear down road signs along Highway 1 so that outsiders cannot find their way* toward the town affectionately called Bo Bo, Bolinas is not for the faint of beach lovers.

Bo Bo surfer. http://www.flickr.com/photos/cproppe/3184005582/

Legend has it that a woman rides her horse along the shorebreak, naked a la Lady Godiva. I have never seen it myself, but believe it nonetheless. One time a man at the beach asked me to take his picture, so I did. Before I could snap away he had taken off his pants (but not his shirt). I have seen fights in Bolinas, parades, festivals, drinking, surfing, swimming, beautiful artwork, I have heard poetry and music; I have taken a bottle rocket to the eye in Bolinas.

Artwork on the beach. http://www.flickr.com/photos/localleaflover/520883765/

I could describe the sand (white, sugary), the water (friendly but cold). I could describe the beach, the flora, the fauna, but who are we kidding? Bolinas is a beautiful beach but it is the people that make it what it is. Bolinas is artists, musicians, freaks, surfers, nudists, dogs running after waves and kids running after balls. Bolinas is a wonderful place to go. Special. If you can find it.

Possibly part of a parade, possibly not. http://www.flickr.com/photos/11114469@N00/223712234/

*Please note: the map on the link is incorrect. Like, incredibly incorrect. It will lead you to a beach between two tony towns. This is not Bolinas, but this is indicative of the humor of the town.

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

At Anne’s Beach in Islamorada in the Florida Keys, it is possible to grab a patch of soft sand on the postage stamp beaches that jut from beneath the mangroves and loll the day away. However, its real beauty can only be experienced upon entering the water. Tidal flats stretch for nearly half a mile beyond the tiny scalloped beaches, covered by just inches of water. The major activity here is not sunbathing, sunning, or boating; people come here to wade.

One visitor exercises by striding through the shallow tidal flats for miles

I stepped into this giant bathtub (because of the shallow depth, the water temperature is always extremely warm) and sank into sand so soft it felt like mud or silt squishing through my toes. Some visitors turned their dogs loose to romp in the water. Others beach-goers strode purposely through the shallows, aiming for a workout. I wandered aimlessly, head down, peering beneath the water to discover its mysteries.

A quarter mile from shore, the water is not even calf high

At first glance, this shallow bay seemed devoid of underwater activity. But looking more closely I realized that life was everywhere. Transparent minnows darted back and forth between the sparkling ripples in the turquoise water. Where sea grass covered the bottom, soft shell crabs scampered sideways, then suddenly stopped and disappeared, perfectly camouflaged by the surrounding sand. Hermit crabs tentatively ventured out of their borrowed homes and clawed their way across the bottom. When I touched their shell or disturbed the water they instantly ducked back inside and sank to the bottom, becoming just another discarded snail shell.

Look closely - the bottom is covered with critters like this hermit crab

In addition to two small parking areas (one with restrooms) connected by a boardwalk, several little covered decks have been built beneath the trees lining the boardwalk; these are perfect for picnics and most have steps leading down to the beach. Anne’s Beach is not for everyday sunning and swimming, but it is an intriguing beach that every visitor to the Keys should experience at least once.

Located at mile marker 73, just off the Overseas Highway on Lower Matecumbe Key in the town of Islamorada, Anne’s Beach is open each day from sunrise to sunset.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

I owe the cluster of freckles on my shoulders from summers spent at Stinson Beach, the smattering of teeny dots left over from a terrible teenage rebellion against sunscreen, the inevitability of aging and my mother nagging me about the danger of melanoma. Oblivious to anything but the draw of the sun and cute boys who surfed, I would pile into my friend’s Volkswagen Bug and speed over the hill and to the beach, the window wide open because the car leaked a constant cloud of gasoline fumes from beneath the dashboard. Once there we would rub ourselves with oil, no SPF, cooking oil really, but somehow it smelled of coconut and young. We squeezed lemon on our hair and flicked on our portable radio, listened to reggae and laid out.

View from the bluff over Stinson Beach. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jweiss3/473570667/

These days I’m all about SPF 50+. I know that lemon only dries out one’s hair and there is this spot on the back of my hand that maybe-might-possibly-please-say-it-’aint-so-but-admittedly is an age spot. The last thing I laid out is an outfit for work the next day. Still I love Stinson Beach. The wide beach, the lifeguards in the summer, the smell of corn dogs and french fries wafting from the little cafe. I love the way that everything is a little brighter at Stinson Beach, the water a smidgeon bluer than up the coast, the sand almost white and clean. Stinson Beach is the closest to a Southern California beach one can get without having to drive through the traffic of Los Angeles.

Surfers at Stinson. http://www.flickr.com/photos/monkeythumbsca/357256755/

In addition to the beach itself, Stinson boasts such facilities as rest rooms, (cold) showers, picnic areas, bbq grills and plenty of parking, making this an ideal beach for a party or family gathering. If you don’t want to cook for yourself but find yourself hungry after a beach walk, a tasty snack bar is open during summer months at the base of the main lifeguard tower.

Regardless of your interests, Stinson Beach has a bit of something for everyone: surfing, kayaking, hiking, beach combing, volleyball or just snoozing on the sand. Do watch out while in the water, though. Not only are there sneaker waves and fierce rip currents, but there have also been a few documented Great White shark attacks in the area. Luckily, the water is usually quite cold and not entirely inviting.

The Tiniest Little Beach in the World! I have no real credentials to say that; in fact, it is hardly a beach, the boat ramp at the end of Turney Street in Sausalito. But it has sand, a large body of water, seashells, the gentle lapping of Richardson Bay, so yeah, technically it’s a beach, and it is most definitely small.

A few weeks ago I wanted to go to the beach with my three year old daughter and my dad, but it was too windy, too foggy, too cold at the coast. My dad, a long-time Sausalito resident, suggested we go to the little beach at the end of Turney Street by the boat ramp and I thought he was crazy. I thought the only thing down there were warehouses, sail repair shops, rusty old cars top-heavy with kayak racks. But I was wrong.

Bay watch.

Located at the end of Turney Street off Briedgeway in Sausalito, this small beach has no official name. While researching it online, I could only find it referred to as the Turney Street Boat Ramp, although quite frankly if they are looking for a name I suggest using mine. Susannah Beach? Small, a little coarse, the water shallow. Well, maybe not. But here’s the thing: this beach that is not really a beach that has no name is actually quite a nice little beach if you’re looking for a small slice of sun on an otherwise cloudy day. The space is perfect for bringing young children as the area is so small they cannot get lost and the water so gentle there is no risk of rogue sneaker waves. The day that we went there were dozens of toddlers all playing in the water. So maybe the water was very slightly murky with boat residue but it’s not as if these kids were of the underwater variety. Plus, there are clean(ish) restrooms right near the parking lot.

Bay view.

One tip, though: a few days later I bragged about this spot to a friend and made plans to meet her there. At a different time of the day. Without checking the tide charts. Suffice it to say the small sandy beach led up to 20 feet of slick mud and the water was very far away. It stank. The kids were freaked out. Make sure you visit this bay beach at high tide only!

All images author’s own.

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

The fact that the beach at Harry Harris Beach is man-made makes it no less attractive than other Florida Keys beaches. In fact, the coral rock barrier that surrounds beach protects it from wave action and large fish. With its protected lagoon, wide expanse of white sand, half-moon sweep of stately palms, covered picnic tables, BBQ grills, showers, and bath house, this Tavernier beach approaches perfection. And that is no small compliment in the Keys, where beaches are few in number and marginal in quality.

A rock jetty creates this placid man-made lagoon in Harry Harris County Park

But that’s not all! This pleasant County facility also has playground equipment, basketball courts, a softball field, volleyball net, a bike path, and even an in-line skating park for sports enthusiasts, while boaters will find an excellent boat ramp that provides access to both Key Largo and Islamorada.

Palms, pavilions, and picnic facilities dot the sand beach

To reach Harry Harris County Park turn east on Burton Drive at the 92.5 mile marker on the Overseas Highway and follow it to the end. The park is open every day of the year from sunrise to sunset.

On Saturday, Sunday, and Federal Holidays, an entrance fee of $5 per person is charged for non-residents over the age of 16.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

North Beach: the Grand-Daddy of all beaches, the Godfather of the Point Reyes National Seashore. With over 10 miles of undeveloped sand, North Beach (and its sister beach to the south, aptly titled “South Beach”) boasts impressive dunes and the drama of heavy surf. Often shrouded in fog and open to the Gulf of Alaska’s every temper tantrum, high winds and all, this beach is not for the suntanned of heart.

Beach? What beach? Here there is fog. http://www.flickr.com/photos/yathin/2507059462/

What makes this beach so exceptional, perhaps, is the very thing that makes it relatively uninhabited. North Beach is wild. It is vast. It is exposed and salty, the water rough and unruly. Unpredictable. The sun may be shining in town and so you make the drive, crest the hill and then–bam! Met by a thick bank of fog. Or, better yet, in town it may be cold, windy and yet you bundle up to go to the beach anyway and then–wow! North Beach is bright, clear, the sweet warm scent of beach grasses lilt in the still air. Who knew? Who knows? This is North Beach, and here North Beach is boss.

On second thought... http://www.flickr.com/photos/michael_stark/347289761/

Then there is the water itself: Cold, thick, fast and burly. Just past the waters edge the beach drops off abruptly, creating severe rip currents and a strong undertow. Swimming is strongly not recommended, but there is a handful of local surfers who brave the cold and the sharks and the everything else scary for the thrill of the very large waves. Hopefully you won’t spot any Great White Sharks, but if you visit between January and May you just might spot a Gray Whale during their migration from Mexico to Alaska. They often swim close to the coast, popping up every now and then to spout off a quick spray of salt water right off the beach in front of you. 

Sometimes simply referred to as The Great Beach, North Beach is nothing if not impressive. Cold? Yes, most days. Foggy, dangerous, windy, gray, and yet? Still: Beautiful, stunning, breathtaking, peaceful, quiet, noble, grand–The Great Beach, North Beach.

Historical structures. http://www.flickr.com/photos/liquid_sky/2829690044/

The beach flanks Fort Cronkhite, one of the few preserved examples of a World War II “mobilization post.” Today the fort’s barracks, mess halls, supply buildings and other red roof-topped structures stand upright like the pages of a pop-up history book, telling the story of the enemy that never came. Some of these buildings are now used for park services, The Headlands Institute, Headlands Visitors Center, The Golden Gate Raptor Observatory and the recently renovated Marine Mammal Center, which is a must-see if visiting with kids.

In addition to historical buildings and park services, Rodeo Beach is at the foot of numerous hiking trails, from Point Bonita to the Coastal Trail to the Miwok Trail and beyond. Trails lead hikers up and over craggy coastal hillsides smelling of sweet grasses and fog. Map out a hike first, or simply set out and see if you can spot any deer, coyote, bobcats, peregrine falcons or hawks. (Although rarely seen, do beware of mountain lions.)

Rock formations at Rodeo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/wetgraphite/373538250/

Of course if hiking’s not your thing, the beach is perfect for a little relaxation. A wide expanse of coarse not-too-sticky sand stretches from one cliff to another, and the beach and surrounding area is relatively dog-friendly. Just behind the beach, Rodeo Lagoon is a favorite spot for bird watching, hosting egrets, ducks and myriad other birds in its shallow wetlands. And just in front lie the crashing waves of the Pacific and the surfers who brave them. Watch container ships pull out of the Gate while a surfer paddles out to the next set and an egret stands on the rocks watching it all with you. RoDAYoh, RoDEEoh: I don’t care how you pronounce it–the beach at Fort Cronkhite has it all.

by Barbara Ann Weibel at Hole In The Donut Travels

Kayaks rest on the beach, waiting to be rented

In the early 1900’s, Long Key Fishing Camp drew the rich and famous - including renowned author Zane Grey - who came for the area’s world-class bonefishing. When the Labor Day Hurricane of 1935 hit, winds of 200+ miles per hours devastated the Middle Keys, bringing this glamorous era to an end.

Today Long Key State Park, site of the once-luxurious fishing resort, provides an opportunity for visitors to experience the “Real Florida” - to sunbathe on uncrowded beaches, canoe through a chain of lagoons, or hike trails in a pristine, uncrowded environment.

Three trails are located within the park. The Golden Orb Trail, named after a giant native spider that weaves an enormous, intricate web that appears to be “stitched”up the center, is a leisurely one-hour walk. The Layton Trail, located on the Gulf side of the park, takes about 20 minutes to walk. The final trail is the Long Key Lakes Canoe Trail, which covers a shallow, saltwater lagoon. Canoe and kayak rentals are available for this self-guided, one-hour paddle.

The park is also a year-round birdwatchers paradise. During the winter and spring, migratory birds are plentiful. Roseate spoonbills, snowy egrets, reddish egrets, raptors are among the species regularly spotted in the area. Long Key is listed in the Great Florida Birding Trail for the white-crowned pigeon.

Waters recede at low tide, exposing broad swaths of sand flat ocean bottom

Although the old fishing camp has long since disappeared, Long Key is as popular as ever with saltwater anglers. The park is a favorite site for bonefish, permit, and tarpon fishing.

The highlight of Long Key State Park is its 60 full-service campsites on the main beach overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. In addition to water and electric hookups, a dump station is available and three restrooms provide hot showers for campers. Campers who seek a more remote experience will love the primitive camping sites that front Atlantic tidal flats along the Golden Orb Trail. Each of these raised wooden platforms provide a roof and a picnic table, but are otherwise open to nature.

Primitive camp sites enjoy oceanfront views from relatively remote locations along the Golden Orb Trail

Long Key State Park officially opened in 1969. It encompasses nearly 1,000 acres and is located at mile marker 67.5 on Long Key, midway between Islamorada and Marathon in the Florida Keys.

Photos courtesy of Barbara Weibel

As a writer it is very hard to admit this, but here goes: I am running out of ways to say that a beach is beautiful. Because lush palm trees? Check. Bright blue water as warm as a bath? Check. Miles of white sand stretched and yawning under jagged cliffs and across wild volcanic rock? Check, check and check-mate.

Mal Pais is a funny little town, although it has been a few years since I’ve been there and by the time you read this it might not be so little anymore. Located on the Southern Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica, Mal Pais has yet to experience the explosion of development of its neighboring town just to the north–Santa Theresa. Although increasingly popular with surfers and travelers, Mal Pais has managed to retain some of its quiet and wide expanses of unspoiled nature.

The coast of Mal Pais is in many places rocky, craggy with coral and volcanic formations which make for stunning scenery set as it is against a backdrop of turquoise water. Where there is not rock, however, the sand is white and clean, sometimes scattered with miniature seashells perfect for beachcombers.

Yawning stretch at El Carmen. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24059087@N03/2285752062/

Playa El Carmen is perhaps the most popular beach. Bordering Mal Pais and Santa Theresa, this beach features softer rip tides and currents, making it more friendly for swimmers and beginning surfers. The beach is bordered by sand bars, though you should watch out for the odd rock outdropping at low tide.

Punta Barrigona is another breathtaking local beach, though this is a well-known reef break for surfers and inherently more dangerous. The same goes for Los Suecos located at the end of the road just above the Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve. The beach itself is tropical paradise at its finest, but do watch the rip tide and the surrounding reef.  

Where volcanic rock meets the reef. http://www.flickr.com/photos/henecarm/87205932/

Known as the “Hawaii of Latin America,” Mal Pais has much to offer a traveler with its sub-tropical scenery, a laid-back atmosphere and beaches that are nothing short of beautiful, even if the word “beautiful” doesn’t begin to describe this funny little town dotted with sand.

I’m not going to lie: Ocean Beach is not the prettiest beach in the world. Perhaps that’s not really a fair assessment. Because it is pretty, beautiful even. It’s just that Ocean Beach is not the beachiest beach. It is rarely warm. The wind fairly howls across the dunes. The sky often lies low and heavy with fog, the water is cold, the waves large, the riptide treacherous. And yet there is something about Ocean Beach that keeps people coming back, both San Francisco locals and visitors alike.

Running adjacent to Golden Gate Park, Ocean Beach is rich in early San Francisco history. Due to its sometimes inhospitable weather, the area was largely undeveloped until the late-19th century. The beach and surrounding miles of sand dunes were known then as the “Outside Lands.” Development came in the form of a steam railroad, and later as the city’s first amusement park aptly named Playland. The fun lasted until 1972 at which time the sand dunes had long been developed into urban sprawl and the roller coaster shut down to make way for cafes, surf shops, apartment buildings and restaurants.

Arcade, Playland at the Beach, 1970. http://www.flickr.com/photos/lvsutton/2536429426/

From spring until late summer Ocean Beach is almost always shrouded in fog. Average temperatures hover around 50°F, scaring away many tourists and beach goers but welcoming joggers, kite-aficionados, beach-combers, bonfire parties, kite-surfers and regular surfers alike. The water is famous for its strong currents and fierce, thick waves. Swimming is not recommended; even wading in the cold water can be dangerous.

Surfers at Ocean Beach. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jonstarbuck/2132418816/

In late summer and early fall, the fog miraculously dissipates, and on the few warm–even hot–days at Ocean Beach it seems as if the entire city flocks west to the coast. Here the people-watching is perfection as the denizens of San Francisco bare their fog-kissed skin to soak up the sun. No matter the weather, do bring layers, however, as the fog comes in fast and it comes in cold.

And so it would seem that despite the blanket of thick fog, despite the roiling gray waves, despite the wind and the salt-mist air, the draw of those 4 miles of Ocean Beach brings people back, time and again. Playland may be gone, but Ocean Beach remains a place to go for fun, for wild beauty, and for a little slice of peace in the concrete jungle of San Francisco.